I had planned my visit to the Zuni / A:shiwi reservation ahead of time, but I wasn't prepared for the amount of overwhelming energy I experienced when I physically arrived there: I spent one night at the magical Bed & Breakfast "The Inn at Halona" and had the most unexpected two days of adventures among the people of Zuni, captured into a side dimension made of artist, storytellers, silent individuals with shared with me their sacred landscapes, artworks and legends.
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| SIGN AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE ZUNI / A:SHIWI VISITOR CENTER |
On the early morning of Wednesday 24th of September I took the Greyhound bus from Albuquerque to Gallup, and arrived to the NKS Truck Stop Station somewhere along Route 66. I then took the Gallup Express Yellow Line to get to Gallup downtown, where my fabulous host Roger J Thomas, the Innkeeper of "The Inn at Halona", would pick me up to accompany me to the Zuni Reservation.
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| THE ALBUQUERQUE STATION |
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| MY GREYHOUND BUS |
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| GALLUP EXPRESS YELLOW LINE |
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| ME IN GALLUP |
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| THE BED & BREAKFAST "THE INN AT HALONA" |
As soon as I arrived, I realised I was in a new reality: "The Inn at Halona", whose staff is composed by all Zuni tribal members, is located at the core of the Pueblo of Zuni and since 1998 provides a comfortable, cozy oasis for the travellers who decide to take it as a starting point to explore the Zuni reservation, to interact with its people and to know their lifestyle. The founder Roger and his wife Anne are extraordinary human beings, so generous and welcoming, and the atmosphere of the place is unique. The name of this Bed & Breakfast refers to Halona:Idiwan'a, meaning "the Middle Village", which is how the main settlement of Zuni is designated, for its central geographical position.
You can visit the webpage of "The Inn at Halona" here:
The Pueblo of Zuni, in indigenous language Shiwinna, counts today around 10.000 inhabitants over an area of around 9 miles squared. The Zuni, in their language A:Shiwi, are one of the few Native American tribes that have remained firmly grounded to their territory throughout time, in spite of several invasions and attempts to scatter them around, and have been proudly inhabiting it till nowadays.
The first remarkable site I uncovered in the Zuni territory is the Sacred Corn Mountain: I was talking my first walk alone out of "The Inn" moving direction North and while I was passing the bridge over the dried creek that runs through the reservation, parallel to the road 53, I took a glance towards East and saw it, among the trees, at a distance: it was beautiful, mighty, breathtaking: Dowa Yalanne, the Corn Mountain.
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| THE SACRED CORN MOUNTAIN SEEN FROM THE BRIDGE OVER THE DRIED CREEK |
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I instinctively grabbed my camera to take a picture of it, and in that precise moment I heard someone calling me: "Madam!". From under the bridge, a guy loaded with pieces of artwork and rolled papers wanted my attention while he introduced himself to me: "I'm Braden, I'm an artist". Two or three other guys were following him and echoed his voice: "He's an artist", "Yes, he's a very talented artist". Braden rapidly reached me, while his followers disappeared, then he began walking by my side and started a long, uninterrupted, picturesque talk about his own art, the Zuni, their history, traditions and myths.
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| BRADEN SHOWING ME HIS ARTWORK |
He then showed me some of his mural paintings, visible here and there on the walls of several building along road 53, the only paved road that crosses the reservation.
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| SOME OF THE MURALS PAINTED BY BRADEN |
Braden (last name Peynetsa) introduced me his friends: a nice couple whose dwelling was decorated with plenty of little objects handmade by local artists. We entered their home, they showed me all the art pieces displayed in the main room, offered me water and gifted me with two items chosen among their belongings: a hawk feather and a leather belt for my hat... I felt very grateful for their friendly attitude and their openness.
Without interrupting his talk, Braden sat down on their yard and started producing a new artwork, carving a mirror with a special tool he uses to create drawings on its surface. He was willing to show me his skills and at the same time he wanted to entertain me with stories, curiosities and cultural lessons about the Zuni. I laughed several times, since his sense of humor was contagious and I was amazed about how similar we were since we could communicate and exchange so easily.
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ZUNI COUPLE, THEY BECAME MY GUIDE, DRIVING ME
WITH THEIR CAR TO THE SACRED SITES OF THE ZUNI REZ |
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| BRADEN WORKING AT THE MIRROR |
Meanwhile, another artist came in: Marcus Peyketewa, known among his community as "the silent artist", since his own condition of being deaf-mute allows him to express himself only by gestures... Anyway, the news that a new tourist was in town had already spread out and reached him as well. He arrived carrying a painted stone portraying a Kachina Doll, with the intention of selling it to me. With the help of Braden, I explained that I couldn't buy heavy objects, because that would had implied me to fill my suitcase too much with weight and face the risk of it to be overweight once I had to take my flight back home. I asked him to replicate the same figure on a paper, and to bring it to me the next day, at 9:00 am, at The Inn At Halona. He seemed concerned: he probably was not accustomed to work with paper. But then he accepted, and eventually so he did: very punctually and politely, the morning after he silently presented himself outside of the Inn, accompanied by his dog, while I was waiting for him, and gave me his artwork on paper: it represented the same Kachina Doll as in the stone. For his drawing, he had used a lined notebook paper, like a boy making his homework for school, and that made me feel enormous tenderness. Plus, he had again brought his stone with the original draw, perhaps to demonstrate me that the replica on paper was accurate, and that also made me smile.
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| THE SILENT ARTIST WITH HIS ARTWORK: A KACHINA DOLL DEPICTED BY HIM BOTH ON STONE AND ON PAPER. |
But, going back to the previous day and Braden's entertaining attitude... he was so enthusiastic about sharing with me all the information he could, the lessons he was taught by his family members, the oral traditions he received by his grandfather, and even his personal biography ...that on the spur of the moment he organised for me a guided tour to the main sacred sites of Zuni, with his friends as guides and their car as vehicle, which served us to cover the distances towards the places he intended to visit. I eagerly accepted, and jumped into this adventure! We firstly went direction West, driving about 10 miles along the dusty road of Ojo Caliente (the Warm Eye) named after an ancient reservoir of spring water, that used to be a deep and permanent lake, as documented also by the first European photographers' images, and was even populated by mythological figures, such a majestic anaconda who was hiding underwater in a profound hole on the ground, so profound that had no bottom... We saw the remnants of the most primordial villages of the Zuni / A:shiwi population, amidst scenic landscapes, dirt paths, and tracks and signs of the glorious past of Zuni, still vivid in their presente inhabitants. Nowadays, the basin is completly empty and dry.
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| THE ACCESS TO THE OJO CALIENTE BASIN |
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THE SIGNS READ THE LOCAL ANCIENT NAMES,
AMONG THESE "OJO CALIENTE", PLUS WARNING SUCH AS
"NO PARKING ON DAM" AND "PLEASE KEEP THE AREA BEAUTIFUL" |
We completed the full loop around the basin, returned back to the Middle Village, and afterwards we headed direction East, towards the Corn Mountain, Dowa Yalanne, which I was looking forward to experience! We approached this sacred mesa first from one side, following a semi circular path around it, almost to pay tribute to the two pillars known as "the Boy and Girl Columns", then from the other side, searching for the still alive spring of water which is pouring from the rock. For all the duration of the tour I was inundated by multiple informations dispensed by my guides, by the sense of reverence that I could perceive growing in Braden as he was describing the symbolism of that important landmark, and the energy of the place itself.
I soon found out about the historical meaning of this site, considered holy since its role in the history of Zuni.
Some notes from Wikipedia:
For more than 100 years beginning in 1540, the Pueblo people of present-day New Mexico were subjected to successive waves of soldiers, missionaries, and settlers. These incursions, referred to as entradas, were characterized by violent confrontations between Spanish colonists and Pueblo peoples. In 1540, Zuni people from the village named Hawikuu fled to the top of the mesa in order to escape the attackers of the expedition of Francisco Vazquez de Coronado. 14 structures were built there to be used as a refuge from the Spaniards between 1540 and 1680. Before the Pueblo Revolt (the rebellion of most of the indigenous people of present New Mexico against the Spanish colonists) which took place in 1680, the Zuni lived in six different villages. After the revolt, and until 1692, they took refuge in a defensible position atop Dowa Yalanne and for the first time gathered into a single settlement. About 48 Pueblo structures were built between 1680 and 1692 on the top of the mesa, which covers approximately 320 acres (130 ha). The population of Dowa Yalanne in 1680 is estimated to have been approximately 2500 people. After the establishment of peace and the return of the Spanish, the Zuni relocated to their present location. The mesa is now a place for shrines and religious activities, and is closed to outside visitors.
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| ME STARING AT THE CORN MOUNTAIN |
While I was admiring the rocks, Braden ran to the spring and his friends commented: "He will bring you some sacred water". Minutes later, Braden was back with a little bottle filled with the water collected from the spring and a hand full of clay, telling me that I could use both for therapeutic purposes.
By the time the Sun (or My Mother Sun as Braden would tell) was setting that day, I was feeling complete. I had had a taste of the village of the Zuni, I had enjoyed the beauty and harmony palpable in the surroundings, I had admired the fierceness of the individuals, and awakened to the awareness that they had kept their land safe as their ancestors had done prior for them, and they had preserved their memories intact, even without using recorded archives or written documentations, but just counting on petroglyphs carved on the rocks and words repeated to their children and grandchildren... I was ecstatic!
That evening I was so excited that I had to share my adventures with Roger and Anne during the abundant a delicious dinner they had prepared for me and a young couple from Tokyo.
That night I went to sleep full of new sensations and inspirations.
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| ANOTHER ROCK PAINTED BY THE SILENT ARTIST |
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| ANOTHER ARTWORK BY BRADEN |
The day after I would discover how fascinating is that the Zuni had been respectfully accepted and integrated into their culture some aspects originally brought by the colonists, thus creating a colourful composition of symbols, languages and signs belonging to different traditions... The result is that they show reverence for figures, characters and icons such as the Virgin Mary and Jesus Child from the Christian religion or the Stars and Stripes flag from the American politics, giving them their own significance, and wisely transforming them into something that has anyway been part of their history.
I woke up very early in the following morning and even prior to have my breakfast, I took a walk through the reservation in order to see it illuminated by the delicate lights of the dawn.
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| IMAGES OF THE RESERVATION IN THE EARLY MORNING SUNSHINE |
I then return back to "The Inn at Halona" and gained seat at their bountiful breakfast table, where I joined other guests in a nice and fruitful conversation. I also saw Roger, who, despite of being always busy, found a moment for reassure me that he and Anne would take me back to Gallup later on that day, in order for me to arrive on time to then catch my Greyhound bus and go back to Albuquerque (I had considered to use the A:Shiwi transit system shuttle, which operates between Zuni and Gallup on weekdays, but somehow the option to share more time with my adorable hosts was more appealing to me...!).
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BREAKFAST AT "THE INN AT HALONA":
DELICIOUS FOOD, IN A SURPRISING VARIETY OF CHOICES,
COOKED WITH EXTREME CARE AND PRESENTED IN SUCH A LOVING WAY!
I ABSOLUTELY LOVED THE BLUE CORN PANCAKES. |
Once finished my delicious breakfast, I went outside of "The Inn" to wait for the Silent Artist, with whom I had appointment at 9:00, as already mentioned. After our exchange took place, I did my best to explain to him that I intended to pay visit to the "Santo Nino the Zuni". The day before I was pointed toward what I considered to be the most puzzling mystery I could expect to find in a Native American tribe heritage, and I was curious about it. The Silent Artist somehow understood and accompanied me till the door of the traditional home of the Yatsattie family, who solemnly keeps the Santo Nino: a small wooden statue of the Holy Child, greatly revered by the Zuni.
Notes from the website zunitourism.com:
The Catholic people of Zuni and the surrounding Spanish-speaking communities revere the statue for many favours received through his intercessions The Catholic people of Zuni and the surrounding Spanish-speaking communities revere the statue for many favors received through his intercessions.
It is believed that the Spanish Franciscans brought the statue to Hawikku (15 miles south of present-day Zuni) in 1628 from Spain as a gift to the new La Purisima Concepcion Church. This church was one of the original churches in the area and the first home of the Santo Nino. In 1670, the statue was moved to Halona (now known as the Zuni Pueblo) to Nuestra Senora de La Candelaria Church.
During the Pueblo Revolt in 1680, a male member of the family where the statue resides now rescued the Santo Nino from the burning church. The Santo Nino, along with other sacred vessels, and vestments of the catholic church were relocated and hidden in Dowa Yalanne (also known as Corn Mountain.) In 1962, De Vargas unconquered New Mexico, and the Spaniards found the Zunis had preserved such religious church articles as vestments, sacred vessels, and the Santo Nino.
The Zunis believe the Saint is the daughter of the Sun who has tremendous power. In the early years, the Zuni People would host a ceremonial social dance, o:dinne th'ana (the Big Dance), to honor the Santo Nino. The dance would bring people together, young and old, in a day filled with dance and laughter. The statue would be carried in procession to the plaza, and placed in an arbor as two chanters sing and members of the Zuni Council would serve as honor guards. The dance would usually last four(4) days, from sun up to sun down. Today, the social dance is still held in October, however, the saint no longer joins the procession and stays inside her home where dancers go to show their respect.
The sacred statue is visible for whoever asks to enter that little tiny home, guarded by a man and 4 dogs, in Sunshine Street. After having waved Goodbye to the Silent Artist, I turned to the man and ask permission to enter and see the Santo Nino. He allowed me to enter and I could finally see it. Its presence dominates the entire room and commands silence and respect. It is kept under a partially open reliquary, placed at the center of a big table, covered with the most shiny US flag. The openness of the showcase allows for the pilgrims to directly put their offers inside of the pocket sewed on the dress worn by the Saint. A big sign warns the visitors not to take pictures and another sign invites to leave a donation. Everyone can pick up a prayer card of the Santo Nino and a brochure describing his story and significance.
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| THE HOME HOSTING THE SANTO NINO DE ZUNI |
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| PRAYER CARDS OF THE SANTO NINO THE ZUNI |
I looked at the Santo Nino, attempted a sort of inner prayer in form of energetic connection with "him", left one dollar bill in his pocket and went out, and I had to almost run down to the three step stairs, since one of the guardian dogs was trying to grab my vest, while the man was both greeting me and holding it at bay.
I decided to go on with my own personal exploration, took a shortcut to the road 53, crossed it and walked to the Zuni Visitor Center. That's when I saw one of the A:shiwi shuttle buses passing by me, and I remembered that I still wanted the information about that local Transit System, to check if their timetable were sticking to the official schedule, just for curiosity or -let's call it- my spirit of investigation... I later found out that the informations I had downloaded from their webpage were partially accurate... and partially not: for instance, there's no bus stop in front of the Visitor Center, as mentioned in the webpage, while there is one at the A:shiwi Tribal Offices, on the same road 53, at half mile of distance. I took note of that for the future, just in case.
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THE A:SHIWI TRANSIT SYSTEM BUS STOP
AT THE ZUNI TRIBAL OFFICES, ROAD 53 |
The Zuni Visitor Center is an interesting hub for tourists interested in Zuni culture and history: it displays old photographs, ancient exhibits, unique documentaries, it provides guided tours, information about the etiquette and updates about community events in the Pueblo of Zuni.
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| ACCESS TO THE ZUNI VISITOR CENTER |
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INTERIOR OF THE ZUNI VISITOR CENTER
AND SOME OF THE IMAGES AND EXHIBITS DISPLAYED IN IT |
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| ONE OF THE EARLIEST PICTURES OF THE ZUNI PUEBLO |
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| Picture of some of the petroglyphs and
pictographs that were excavated in 1930
by archaeologist Frank H. H. Roberts, Jr
nearby one of the Zuni settlements |
Coming back along the road 53, I stopped at the local Trading Post, where a great variety of handmade artefacts by local artists can be found: jewels, pottery, sculptures, kachina dolls, accessories, buckles, rugs, paintings and decorative objects...
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| THE ALL TRIBES TRADING POST |
I eventually finished my walk along the Road 53 and moved back towards Halona. Even if I had toured by car The Middle Village the day before, thanks to Braden and his friends, I was tickled by the idea of exploring it alone and wandering around its maze of narrow dirty paths, perhaps half randomly half following my instinct, maybe at the risk of getting lost in it, or be bitten by one of the loose dogs that I have heard barking aloud...! It was worth that risk: Halona:idiwan'a is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
So, I went and pointed in the direction of another fascinating enigma of the Zuni: the abandoned Zuni Mission Church of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. The different cultures coexisting together for centuries in this territory met inside this Church as the single focal point of multiple devotion practices: Cristian Crosses, kachina murals, native symbols and american flags decorate the cemetery in front of the Church.
Notes from the nps.gov (National Park Service) website:
The Spanish considered Halona a distant and dangerous outpost, 75 miles from the mission at Acoma and 125 miles from the Spanish settlements along the Rio Grande. Missionary contact with the Zuni began in 1629 A.D. The Mission of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de Zuni was one of the three 17th century Spanish Franciscan missions on the Zuni Indian Reservation. The other two, La Purísima Concepción de Hawikuh, and the unexcavated church at Kechipan near Ojo Caliente, are now in ruins. The date of the establishment of a mission at Halona, though, is the subject of some controversy among historians. The first specific reference to a mission at Halona occurs in comments about the region written between 1663-1666 A.D., at which time it is referred to as Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de Halona. This mission building was destroyed at the time of the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, and the friars in Zuni communities were killed or driven out. The Zuni population gathered into a fortification and village on Dowa Yalanne ... The Franciscans returned, and the church was rebuilt and renamed in 1705, and rebuilt again in 1780 during a period of relative peace. Unlike the rest of the pueblo, whose buildings were made of stone held together with mud mortar and covered in mud plaster, the church was constructed with molded adobe bricks. In the late 1700s, the church façade had two bell towers and a balcony. By July 1821, following Mexican independence from Spain and the secularization of missions throughout Mexico, the Franciscan priests left the mission and no new priests were assigned there. The building fell into disuse and disrepair, but was revived when priests were reassigned to the pueblo beginning in 1921. The mission underwent a variety of repairs during the 20th century. It was re-roofed in 1905, but more significant alterations took place in the 1960s. The three-way partnership between the Zuni Tribe, the National Park Service, and the Catholic Diocese of Gallup resulted in the excavation of the mission and convento from 1966-1967, and the reconstruction of the church in 1969. Zuni artist Alex Seowtewa began life-size kachina murals in the restored church, and he and his sons completed the work in 2006. The work is a unique incorporation of Zuni traditional religious figures into a formerly Roman Catholic building. Upkeep and maintenance of the adobe church continues today.
Visiting the inside of the Church could have been possible only with a guided tour booked in advance, so I limited to look at it from outside, imagining scenes of the past, when the Mission was opened, active and full of life... While I was having a look at the back of the building, I suddenly turned left and remembered that Braden the day before had showed me from the car window something that was very important for him as an artist: it was a glimpse of the Middle Village that revealed the true essence of the first settlement, preserved exactly as it was built in its origins, kept intact in its architectural structure and in its present aspect. That very view, from that precise point where he pointed it to me, represented in his mind the "perfect perspective" and he solemnly declared that he was willing to paint it as his next mural on an empty surface of one the buildings of Road 53. I was standing there at that moment, and watching that "perfect perspective" trying to seeing it with Braden's eyes... I felt goosebumps for an instant, as if I had made a quick backflip to the history of Zuni and equally fast returned to the now.
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| THE MIDDLE VILLAGE "PERFECT PERSPECTIVE" |
I ended my exploration of Zuni Pueblo at the A:shiwi A:wan Museum and Heritage Center, a tribal museum which promotes cultural programs and exhibitions dedicated to the history of Zuni and to educational projects for the future.  |
| THE A:SHIWI A:WAN MUSEUM AND HERITAGE CENTER |
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INSIDE THE MUSEUM, A MAGNIFICENT MULTI PANEL ILLUSTRATING
THE HISTORY AND THE MYTHS OF ZUNI |
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| OLD PICTURES AT THE MUSEUM SHOW TRADITIONAL ACTIVITIES OF BOYS AND GIRLS IN THE COMMUNITY: BOYS ARE CARRYING WOOD FOR OVEN BREAD BAKING WHILE GIRLS ARE READY TO BAKE BREAD. |
I enjoyed greatly the chance of a personal solitary full immersion on a series of pieces of art and installations illustrating the history and myths of Zuni. I had an interesting exchange with Curtis Quam, Museum Technician and Cultural Educator, and I could comprehend how important is for the Zuni to transmit to the next generations the values, habits and rituals that defined their ancestors, helping them to survive and thrive in the same unaltered environment for thousands of years. Those values strengthened the union of the tribe: the Zuni forged their own way to be prepared and to catch up with the rapid evolution imposed by the external world during the last centuries. Now, those same values are passed onto to their children to teach them to face the challenges of the contemporary society, by remembering them their unique identity, and by giving them a deep sense od community to count on, while pointing them in the direction of the future, maybe uncertain for being so full of contradictions, but nevertheless also full of different possibilities...
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THE ZUNI CHRISTIAN REFORMED MISSION,
founded in 1897 by Andrew an Effa Vander Wagen,
i also one of the schools in Zuni |
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A SIGN ADVERTISING THE 988 FREE AND CONFIDENTIAL LIFELINE
FOR SUPPORT IN CASE OF EMOTIONAL OR MENTAL STRUGGLES,
OR IN CASE OF DRUG AND ALCOHOL USE ISSUES,
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When I came out of the Museum, I felt I had completed a cycle. I went back to "The Inn at Halona" and decided to sit down in the nice porch, to relax and enjoy the quietness of that glorious Autumn afternoon. I was inspired to write, to take notes, to review some of my photos ...and to simply enjoy those last moments, while I knew I had soon to get ready and say goodbye. I collected my things and take advantage of the remaining time to see more of the hidden spots of the lovely garden.
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| THE LOVELY GARDEN OF "THE INN AT HALONA" |
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BATHROOM DOORS AT THE INN, WITH
THE A:SHIWI WORDS FOR WOMEN AND ME
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| THE POND IN THE GARDEN OF "THE INN AT HALONA" |
"The Inn at Halona" has a very high vibration, the owners and the staff of this amazing place are extraordinary human beings, their kindness and attention made me feel home immediately. Everything in it is harmony and beauty: the original building (1974) has been enhanced piece after piece according to the needs and the increasing touristic demand, and now it counts 12 rooms. All occupied during my stay.
I was savouring and daydreaming, when Roger appeared and exclaimed: "Come on, we're going to Gallup, it's time!". He and his wife Anne had organized their agenda in order to bring me to the Greyhound Bus Stop in Gallup in time for me to catch the bus for my return trip to Albuquerque. During the drive from Zuni to Gallup, I enthusiastically updated them about my second day of exploration in Zuni and that's when I declared I would post on my blog about my experience... well this is now done! Plus, I was already thinking about a special gift for them, to show them my gratitude, but I wanted it to be a surprise so... I didn't say anything, but I came up with an idea... a project that in this moment is still in course of realization... but it will be soon revealed as the sequel of this story.
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| MY BAGGAGE WHERE I WAS PREPARING TO LEAVE... |
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ROGER'DEPARTING WITH HIS TESLA CAR AFTER HAVING DROPPED ME
AT THE NKS TRUCK STATION IN GALLUP, WHERE MY GREYHOUND BUS
TO ALBUQUERQUE HAD ALREADY ARRIVED. |
What I could do while I was waving goodbye was just to express to my fabulous hosts my deep thankfulness and appreciation. My heart was full of joy and it still is. I'm feeling profoundly connected to them, to the staff of "the Inn at Halona" and to the individuals of Zuni that I was lucky to meet. It's been a great honour to be among you! So, I will use the one word I learned in Zuni language: Elahkwa, that is... THANK YOU!!!
